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Lavender ingredient notes · Read before you choose

Reading shampoo ingredients: SLS, SLES, ALES and amino-acid-derived blends

Does “amino acid” always mean gentle? Does sulfate always mean unsuitable? Ingredient names are a starting point. The complete formula, directions and your own response matter too.

01 / INCI

Distinguish three formula descriptions

Surfactants help water remove oil and dirt. A shampoo may combine several. The presence of an amino-acid-derived ingredient does not make the whole formula exclusively amino-acid-based.

Sulfate surfactants

SLS / SLES / ALES

SLS is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate; SLES is Sodium Laureth Sulfate; ALES is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. They are different ingredients with similar names. ALES is also a sulfate surfactant. [1,2]

Amino-acid-derived surfactants

For example, Lauroyl Glutamate

Examples include Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and TEA-Lauroyl Glutamate. These are surfactants derived from amino-acid-related structures, not nutrients being “fed into follicles”. Suitability still depends on the complete formula. [3,4]

Mixed surfactant systems

More than one family

Sulfate, amino-acid-derived and other surfactants can appear together. Their presence alone does not establish proportions, cleansing strength or irritation potential. [4]

02 / LABEL EXAMPLE

A practical example: a verified Blue shampoo label

A verified ESAKI Blue shampoo bottle lists the following three ingredients. This example applies to that checked label, not every product, batch or future reformulation.

AMMONIUM LAURETH SULFATE
ALES, a sulfate surfactant.
TEA-LAUROYL GLUTAMATE
An amino-acid-derived surfactant. TEA denotes a triethanolamine salt, not tea leaves.
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE
Another surfactant listed alongside the first two on the same bottle.

This label indicates a mixed surfactant system, so “sulfate-free” or “pure amino-acid formula” would be inappropriate descriptions. TEA does not establish tea-derived foaming, tea-tree origin or a particular benefit. These three names do not reveal proportions, pH or whole-formula test results. [4]

03 / BEFORE YOU CHOOSE

Four practical questions before choosing

01

What do you need?

Oily scalp, tightness after washing or frizzy ends? Separate scalp needs from hair-strand needs.

02

What does your bottle say?

Check the complete INCI list, directions and version. A highlighted ingredient cannot replace the whole formula.

03

How are you using it?

Follow the labelled amount and method, and rinse thoroughly. Longer contact does not automatically mean better cleansing.

04

How do you respond?

Record the product and method. Stop a suspected product and seek medical advice for stinging, a rash or persistent discomfort; do not assume an adaptation period.

LAVENDER HAIR

Your needs come first

Lavender listens, observes and explains before helping you organise everyday care choices. ESAKI is one example of our selection; a brand name or single ingredient cannot replace judgement about your needs. A free scalp check records visible findings and does not replace medical diagnosis.

Sources & scope

Ingredient assessments have conditions and do not certify every finished product. Supplier information is used to identify ingredients and formula types, not to establish that ESAKI uses that supplier’s raw materials.

  1. Cosmetic Ingredient Review: SLS, SLES and ammonium laureth sulfate
  2. AICIS / NICNAS: sodium and ammonium laureth sulfate assessment
  3. Burnett et al. (2017): Safety Assessment of Amino Acid Alkyl Amides
  4. Ajinomoto supplier information: AMISOFT ingredient identities